Season's Greetings!

All the best for the holidays and beyond!

Putting the "Work" in Workshop

Note: This is the last in a backlog of posts that were delayed by internet access constraints experienced for a few weeks. Since this posting, two additional workshops have occurred.

On 30 November, a series of three-day workshops kicked off involving representatives from two of the 22 “wards” that make up the Petauke District. The representatives (one elected person from each “zone” within the ward, and at least 40% female representatives) were from the Lusangazi and Nyakawise “Area Development Committees”. Each ward has an area development committee. The representatives arrived early, took a short lunch, and returned on their own later in the evening to continue working on hand drawn maps for their wards.  The commitment and enthusiasm of the participants continued throughout the three days.

Workshop participants

The products were generated by the representatives themselves. While quite basic, this is one of the first efforts to introduce spatial considerations in this way, and to cooperatively identify project priorities ”from the ground up” by those most directly affected. Good stuff! Hats off to long-time VSO volunteer and Decentralization Advisor David Dawson as the lead facilitator, District Planning Officer Dulani Phiri who has overseen the effort, others involved in facilitation and translation, and to the participating Area Development Committee members. Here’s hoping the following workshops go this well.     

Workshop participants produced a schematic map of their area

Organized Chaos for a Cause

Petauke has a Community Centre located on the far side of the town’s main “market” area. The centre currently does not appear to enjoy a very high profile. My ever-industrious housemate and coworker, Ity, conceived of an event to involve Petauke’s children and raise the centre’s profile. She proposed a sports and games day for children, and being a sports enthusiast, I signed on as the “official” photographer and “other duties as assigned”.

Sports Day participants waiting to begin

While conducted under the auspices of the Petauke District Council, which administers the centre, the work was done largely by volunteers, and essentially all the materials (mainly food, refreshments and prizes) were donated by local businesses and other supporters. Teams to compete in events ranging from “three-legged” races, tug-of-war, and dodge ball, to organized sports such as volleyball, were recruited through local schools.

The games begin

On the Saturday morning of the big day, the vehicle and driver arranged to transport supplies to the site didn’t show up (a kind supporter dispatched a vehicle and driver on short notice to save the day), thunderstorms threatened, and when we finally arrived at the site, much of the set-up remained to be completed. Several groups arrived late, and the carefully arranged calendar of events had to be adjusted on the fly.

Volleyball court at Community Centre used for the first time

But, as the day unfolded, the real pay-off was in the spirited competition and great enthusiasm shown by the participating children. By the afternoon conclusion, about 100 kids had taken part, and left with smiles on their faces (along with having partaken of snacks and refreshments).   

Dedicated footballers braved torrential rains to cap off the sports events

Although not directly related to anyone’s original placement, I believe it embodies what the VSO experience is about in several important ways. It was a cooperative volunteer effort, focused on providing opportunities for disadvantaged children, sparked greater awareness of a local resource, and may have planted the seed for local residents to build on this foundation. In any case, it was a memorable experience for those involved.

Celebrating at the party held to top off Sports Day 

Wet and Wild

After showers early in November and a relatively dry few weeks, the rains seem to definitely have arrived to stay. Billowy clouds form on most afternoons, with frequent electrical storms and the heaviest rains to date. Even the previously dusty front yard is displaying small green shoots, and the surrounding ground is being tilled and planted throughout the countryside.

Petauke with a thunderstorm threatening

Especially when the power goes out during storms after dark, the lightning flashes put on a veritable light show over the entire horizon. (Wish I could catch that with a camera.)

A Taste of the Netherlands

The same weekend we returned from the journey to Chipata and Mfuwe, two other Dutch colleagues from our VSO induction group visited separately from Lusaka, where their placements are located. It was nice to reunite with these friends, even if briefly and in the midst of one of the most intense swarms of insects I’ve witnessed. The large flying ants emerge annually with the onset of the rainy season, and are considered a delicacy (inswa) by the local population. The septic system had also reached capacity that week, rendering our toilet unusable, Marjolijn didn’t feel well, and Roland left with a touchy stomach, but I think everyone was able to have a retrospective chuckle over the weekend visit to Petauke. It also gave the Lusaka based volunteers a chance to experience a few of the challenges as well as positive aspects of a less urban assignment, as Roland captured some nice photos on Sunday.

Marjolijn, Roland & Ity (VSO Dutch volunteers)

Journey to Chipata (and Other Adventures)

NOTE!

In the last few weeks, I encountered computer and internet access glitches beyond the norm that constrained making new postings. My apologies for the delay in being able to share the information written during this period. I will post this past material as opportunities permit, starting with this post.

On 23 November, the District Planning Officer, Works Director, Decentralization Advisor and I made our way to the Eastern Province capital, Chipata, to meet with representatives of the Ministry of Local Government and Housing. Because Petauke is a “district council”, as opposed to a “city council” or “municipal council”, planning authority is largely retained by the Eastern Province Planning Authority, which is staffed by the Ministry of Local Government and Housing. (My regrets to those of you who aren’t into planning jargon, but some references to work and the professional side of things needs to be made from time to time.)  In addition, a Geographic Information System (GIS) is being developed for the Eastern Province, and we wanted to explore the potential for cooperative efforts in data gathering and management, mapping and other aspects of planning. After numerous postponements, it was nice to finally engage in a face-to-face exchange of information and ideas. Obtaining consistent and reliable data and basic mapping are a significant challenge.

 

Meeting at Ministry of Local Government & Housing in Chipata

The next day, we attended a meeting of the Eastern Province Planning Authority. The session was also attended by a group from the Lusaka Province Planning Authority, which later participated in a demonstration tour addressing planning issues of mutual interest.

Meeting of the Eastern Province Planning Authority

We proceeded on to the Mambwe District where the rest of the group was staying, and ended up in Mfuwe, the gateway to South Luangwa National Park. This afforded the opportunity to spend the better part of a day and evening in the park, one of Africa’s gems as a wildlife viewing destination. While not the peak time, one could easily spend a week exploring the vast park. This was certainly one of the highlights of my experience in Zambia thus far.

South Luangwa National Park


While paved roads exist in the vicinity of the park, portions of the drive there were over “washboard” conditions that were jarring, to say the least. On the way back, one of the tires failed. The vehicle had a spare, but unfortunately, the jack had been placed in another vehicle. With patience and goodwill from passersby, we were finally able to get back on the road before too late in the day. After reaching the main highway, and cruising back to Petauke, the spare tire blew out around 30 kilometers west of Chipata, and still a good hour and a half from home. Our driver, Mr. Banda, deserves a great deal of credit for remaining calm and keeping the vehicle under control while easing it off to the highway shoulder. This necessitated another vehicle delivering a tire. Late that evening, we finally safely arrived back in Petauke.    

First flat tire (of two)



Ity's Excellent Party

With housemate Ity and I having had a few weeks to settle into our house, she raised the fine idea of throwing a get acquainted party for our neighbors. Thus, we invited everyone from the nine other homes located next to the Nyika Motel, and at 15:00 hours (military time is the standard here) on 14 November, we began serving juice, coffee, tea and chocolate, along with biscuits (aka cookies in the U.S.) and Zambian style “donuts” from our front porch. First, several of the numerous local kids came by (and were remarkably sedate and well behaved). Then, some of the adult neighbors began to drift over, and within a couple of hours, we had exhausted our supplies and met a number of folks. All in all, it was a nice way to become more a part of the community (and we now have 22 plastic cups).   

Early stage of party for neighbors

Thanksgiving Note

In case I'm not able to make another post for awhile, please let me take this opportunity to wish a happy Thanksgiving to all those back home in the U.S.!

Neighborhood Happenings

Sports Central…

Now that we’re settling into our house, we’re also starting to get to know some of the neighbors living in the surrounding homes. On Saturday, following morning shopping for most of the week’s supplies, one of the local children was playing out by our front porch. Housemate Ity was interacting with him and a couple of other youngsters, when an idea was hatched to use a rope we had purchased to try some “jump rope.” Soon, other young neighbors of varying ages joined in, and before long, we had a good size group involved.

"Sports Central"

This transitioned to other local games, one of which involved a rope gradually raised in height where the participants engaged in synchronized dance steps. Another used a tightly rolled “ball” of plastic bags to play a game similar to “dodge ball.” A little exercise, a lot of fun, and some nice interaction with our friends and neighbors!

High Steppin'

Fire…

I had to include this photo of trash and low brush being burned in front of our house. Such small fires are a regular occurrence. They seem to help prevent larger burns. 

Fire!

The Great Water Mystery…

As mentioned in previous posts, we are fortunate that our house has electricity and running water. Service interruptions occur rather frequently, however. A storm may knock out electrical service, for instance, which in turn may lead to water well pumps shutting down and cutbacks in water service. In addition, power frequently fails when dinner is being cooked, and the correlation between water shutdowns and when I shower in the morning is uncanny. Thus, we took a lack of water service recently in stride, comforted by the knowledge that water usually is flowing again within a few hours, and we had a couple of buckets of back-up supply.     

When water was still down the next morning, and then the entire following day, inconvenience evolved to increasing concern. This was compounded by the weekend timing, and the discovery that other houses were getting water. After a third day without water, the toilet essentially unusable, and our supplies almost exhausted, we were chagrined to discover an outdoor valve leading to the house had been turned off. Perhaps we’ll never know who shut off the water or why, but it was so nice to have it flowing again that we could laugh off the episode. In the meantime, we substantially increased our back-up supplies in case a similar challenge arises in the future. 

And the Rains Came...

October is generally acknowledged as the hottest month in Zambia, with the transition from the hot and dry season to the hot and wet season usually beginning in November. While still warm and humid, the rains periodically cool things off a bit, increased cloud cover tempers the sun’s intensity, and breezes accompanying storms provide a welcome respite from the heat. As if on cue, the first week in November brought gathering clouds, some swirling winds, occasional lightning and thunder, and scattered showers. (These phenomena also tend to be accompanied by power outages and water supply cut-offs, but that’s another story.)

Late Wednesday night (actually early Thursday morning) was absolutely still, when lightning flashed, thunder rumbled, winds picked up, and the initial raindrops on the roof soon sounded as though Somerset Maugham’s “Rain” had come to life. Actually, the precipitation was fairly brief, and probably not nearly as intense as it seemed based upon the noise emanating from the corrugated metal roof. At least the puddles were relatively few the next morning, and no water appeared to have dripped through the small holes in the roof. In any case, the dust was settled for a few hours, and the earth had a distinctly moist aroma. While the rains cannot yet be considered to have officially arrived, the signs are beginning, and farmers are starting their preparations for another growing season. 

Sarah (right) & other organizers of braai

On Sunday afternoon, a welcome “braai” was generously provided for new VSO volunteers in the Eastern Province. This was a great opportunity to see compatriots who also arrived in October, compare experiences to date, and meet other VSO volunteers as well as a variety of people from different organizations. The gathering took place at “VSO House” in Chipata, which features lovely grounds with huge trees. Chipata, the provincial capital and largest city, is about a two-hour drive east from Petauke. Special thanks to the VSO Volunteer Committee and especially Sarah Washington (the Volunteer Committee Eastern Province representative), Rosie and Frances (VSO volunteers residing at the site), and others who helped organize the event or otherwise contributed.     

November 8 marked World Town Planning Day, and completion of one month in Zambia (and three weeks in Petauke).

Nary a Goblin in Sight

In what must be a blow to the candy and costume industries, October 31 came and left in this part of the world with absolutely no outward recognition of Halloween. This week, we finally moved into our house. The District Council has put forth a significant amount of effort to make it comfortable, and it has two bedrooms, a living room, a kitchen, a toilet room, and a "geyser" shower, along with other features that are not the norm for a Zambian home. Nonetheless, a few inevitable loose ends and surprises were encountered. No chairs, no water at various times of the day, no place to put the oven in the kitchen, no mirror (perhaps a good thing in my case, but shaving is definitely a challenge without water or a mirror), and an assortment of now familiar characters popping in and out (a pretty sizable lizard that uses the opening in the wall for the shower drain, a very large, hairy and frenetic spider that comes in and out under the front door, and cockroaches that seem to reside in the door locks and frames). One by one, these challenges are being attended (or adjusted) to, with chairs delivered, water stored, cooking with the portable oven on the large living room table, and tolerance for at least some of our extra “roommates”.

A number of kids reside in the other nearby houses, and Ity became an instant hit by providing the curious onlookers with balloons. They ran, jumped, and kicked and batted the balloons with amazing energy.   

Ity makes some instant friends

Another challenge is that the house heats up like an oven during the day and evening this time of the year. Opening up the doors and windows to increase circulation makes it easier for mosquitoes to enter. While Ity traveled to Lusaka this weekend to take part in a program for other Dutch compatriots the first of the week, I stocked up on some home basics, and also carried back a large fan from town. The locals were doubtless snickering or at least scratching their heads over that one.

A favorite tree near our house

Reflections...

Rather than moving ahead in a strictly linear fashion, this may be a good point to step back and provide some additional details on experiences thus far.

Scene from Petauke near sunset

The Journey to Petauke…

Through good fortune, another VSO volunteer, Ity from the Netherlands, is also on a short-term assignment in Petauke with the District Council. Thus, we’ve had an opportunity to provide mutual support, and are slated to be housemates. She is unfailingly cheerful, engaging and positive, which furnishes a nice counterpoint to my more reserved demeanor. As previously noted, our scheduled departure from Lusaka after completing the in-country induction and training was somewhat delayed, and Ity, driver (and District Council Mechanic) Mr. Tembo, and I finally left the city behind about 2:30 p.m. in a truck crammed with our gear, along with a new refrigerator for the house and other items. We soon entered a more pastoral landscape. One surprise was that in the countryside almost everywhere was either recently burned or burning, apparently to clear surface vegetation prior to inception of the rainy season and regrowth of the ground cover. An unfortunate result of this was somewhat impaired visibility of the increasingly impressive scenery as we entered more varied topography and finally dipped into the Luangwa River Valley. Crossing the river, we finally made our way into the Eastern Province.

Ity with our gear on the road to Petauke

As we continued east, the sun dipped below the horizon, and we arrived in Petauke safe and sound Saturday night. Because of the evening hour and not having a key to our house (or knowing exactly where it was), we checked into the Nyika Motel, which is located along the road into town from the Great East Road.

Nyika Motel

Sunday morning, Mr. Tembo arrived early to enable our gear and furnishings to be unloaded (with generous help from several local folks and a number of curious neighbor children looking on), so we could move into…

The House…

Our house is located among several others next to the Nyika Motel, about 3.5 kilometers from town. Just as we were starting to unpack our things, Jovax Ngoma, the acting Deputy Council Secretary, arrived to greet us, introduce himself and let us know that work still needed to be done on the house before we should occupy it. Thus, our stuff (less the refrigerator) was hauled back to the motel, which remains our temporary home until the finishing touches are completed on the house. The Petauke District Council owns the Nyika Motel, as well as the nearby houses where our accommodations are located. (Ours is the house with the fresh exterior paint!) Later Sunday, we walked from the motel into town and to the Petauke District Council offices. Our initial impression is that Petauke seems to be a pleasant place. Transportation will pose some challenge, as the house is a good 45-minute walk from the offices, rather the 15-20 minutes indicated in the placement outline, and one becomes fairly drenched in sweat on such a journey this time of the year.  At least initially, we will be provided with a ride to and from work, and Monday morning, we were ready to begin…

Curious young neighbors

The Job…

Monday morning, we arrived at the District Council offices, and were warmly greeted by everyone we met from the building entrance to around the offices, with Jovax Ngoma providing introductions and guiding us around the facility. Our staff counterparts from the prior Friday workshop in Lusaka were continuing to wrap up some other business there. My desk is located in the Works Department, although I’ll be working primarily with staff from the District Planning Unit, as well as the Works Department. Tuesday, we sat in on a workshop concerning the budget and involving about 20 to 25 members of the public representing various groups, as well several staff members. While scheduled to conclude by 12:30 p.m., it continued well into the afternoon.

The Field Trip…

With Works Director Betram Daka, supported by capable driver Wilson and helpful Security representative Simon, we set off on my third day on the job for more remote parts of the Petauke District. Turning south from the Great East Road just west of the Petauke turn-off, we made our way generally south on an unpaved road that ranged in quality from fair to downright bone-crunching. Over this very large area, one cannot help being struck by the truly rural nature of the district. Along the order of 90% of the district’s population resides in village settlements of varying sizes, with small scale agriculture (including crops and livestock) the predominant activity. At one point we were within about 10 kilometers of the Mozambique border as the crow flies, but not near a border crossing.

We stopped at two schools, where Mr. Daka carefully inspected projects under way.  About half of Zambia’s population is 15 or under. Please note Mr. Daka’s dedication in scaling a roof where work is in progress to complete his observations. He was much braver than me!

Mr. Daka at work

We then trooped on to an innovative pedestrian bridge under construction that will allow a community to remain connected as waters rise during the rainy season. Five such suspension bridges are being built in Zambia.

Independence Day…

October 24 is the Republic of Zambia’s Independence Day, and a time of festiveness and celebration. Events occurred here Saturday evening and extended throughout the day Sunday, with a Monday holiday because the 24^th falls on the weekend. My sense is that despite all of the challenges faced, Zambians highly value and take great pride in their independence, freedoms, and largely harmonious society.

Independence Day celebrations

On to Petauke

If the last post seemed rather cryptic, that’s because it was. Internet service in Zambia has thus far proven inconsistent and painfully slow, with literally hours devoted to opening and responding to relatively simple e-mails. But, from another perspective, how miraculous is it that one can communicate by various electronic means from nearly half way around the world?

Grounds at the Commonwealth Youth Programme
on the University of Zambia Campus

To recap, the initial week of in-country training and orientation in Lusaka wrapped up on October 15. Among some of the highlights, beyond meeting and getting to know the highly diverse and capable cadre of fellow VSO volunteers and VSO Zambia staff, were an introductory tour of Lusaka, a welcome “braai” (along the lines of a BBQ in the U.S) handled by the VSO Volunteer Committee, presentations by a variety of experts covering a range of topics, an evening reception generously provided by the British High Commissioner in Zambia, and a Cultural Night featuring traditional dances from throughout the country (and including some spirited audience participation).

We also met representatives of our host organizations, and on Saturday departed from our accommodations at the Commonwealth Youth Program on the University of Zambia campus for destinations throughout the Southern, Eastern and Lusaka Provinces. After a five-hour plus journey (not to mention around five hours of largely waiting to get started), we finally arrived in Petauke Saturday evening.

Petauke District Council Offices

Today, finally was able to access the internet in Petauke, thanks to the help of colleague David Dawson. Much to report, so please stay tuned!

Zambia or Bust

Following an overnight flight departing Thursday evening from San Francisco to London, around five hours in Terminal 5 at Heathrow (just not enough time to actually get out and do something constructive while waiting), and another overnight flight to Lusaka (if it's Saturday, it must be Zambia), I finally arrived to begin my volunteer posting. In talking with a few other VSO recruits on the London to Lusaka leg of the journey, little did we know what a large arriving group was involved. The bus that came out early Saturday morning to retrieve us was so overwhelmed with baggage that a second vehicle was secured. All told, some 17 folks arrived, to be followed by several others on diferent connecting flights.

Debarking at Lusaka

The first week in country is devoted to orientation, training and preparation for our specific placements. We're all staying at the Commonwealth Youth Program facility at the University of Zambia campus. Next Saturday, we leave for our ultimate destinations (some staying in Lusaka, and others headed for diverse locales around the country).

On the Road Again

After a roughly 600-mile drive on Monday to get my car up to the San Francisco Bay Area, where it will reside during my stint overseas, I'm gearing up for tomorrow's flight to Lusaka, via London. Many, many thanks to friends, family and others who have made this adventure possible and provided such a nice send-off. A special thanks to the supporters to date who have made donations to CUSO-VSO (for those who may want to give, please note the link to my fundraising site under "Now See This" on this page), to Sherry and the other committee volunteers at CityFront Terrace (the condominium complex that's home) for a surprise dinner, to loyal friends Jack and Linda for a wonderful dinner and evening out, to Jan and Harry for a superb dinner in their lovely home, to Connie and Mike for a great home-cooked breakfast at their very cool place with other tennis buddies following play (is there a culinary trend here?), to Enid, who bravely is assisting management of my finances (and also provided a fine lunch), to Astrid and Goran for generously looking after completion of infamous bathroom repairs in my unit (everyone at CityFront will know what this is about) and keeping an eye on my condo, not to mention Goran's patient efforts to try and bring me into the 21st century technologically, to Mitch and Jen for putting me up (and putting up with me) these last few days and for taking care of my car, and to my Mom and other family members for their love, caring and support. 



Mt. Diablo from Mitch & Jen's in Pacheco, California



Transitions

September 22 (or September 23, depending on one's location) marks the autumnal equinox. This is one of  two times during the course of the year when the center of the sun is directly over the equator, and the amount of daylight and darkness is theoretically equal around the globe on that date. For those in the Northern Hemisphere, fall officially begins, as does the transition to darkness exceeding daylight. Conversely, for those in the Southern Hemisphere, spring starts, along with the transition to daylight exceeding darkness.

With departure from California for Zambia to work as a volunteer through CUSO-VSO now just around the corner, a major personal transition is in the offing as well. Besides flipping hemispheres, just a few of the variables that will change dramatically include living arrangements, work environment, daily activity patterns and social interactions. Part of what prompted these musings is the realization that if all goes according to plan, I'll miss winter entirely while on the placement in Zambia. Granted, winter in San Diego is hardly noticeable, but altogether, these transitions are rather daunting and exciting at the same time. In any event, please enjoy the commencement of autumn, or the dawn of spring, as the case may be, and the days and evenings ahead!

Back to the Future




Victoria Falls, 2000


In early January 2000, I had the good fortune to cap off a memorable visit to southern Africa with a stop at the spectacular Victoria Falls for a couple of days. Though staying on the Zimbabwe side of the Zambezi River, walking over the bridge into Zambia was a relatively easy matter. Thus moved by curiosity and a whim, I was able to spend a few hours in the Republic of Zambia, gain a different perspective of the river and falls, and enjoy a very brief taste of another country.

Little did I suspect that more than a decade later, life’s course would include a return to Zambia, this time as a volunteer through CUSO-VSO. CUSO-VSO is a non-profit organization that sends skilled professionals to share their knowledge and experience with people trying to improve their lives and build better futures for their communities in more than 40 countries around the globe.



Entering Zambia, 2000


Beginning in October 2010, I will be working as a Town Planner with the Petauke District Council, the local governing body for a portion of Zambia’s Eastern Province. Petauke is a town of about 20,000 located some 400 kilometers east of Lusaka, Zambia’s capital and largest city. The Petauke District provides public services to an area with a population reported to exceed 200,000. I will share my training and experience as a Planner with the District Council to assist preparation of a locally generated Integrated Development Plan. The process aims to integrate economic, public service and land use planning efforts, with active participation by those affected.



Welcome to Zambia, 2000

This site is intended to provide a personal record of the experience ahead, and a means of sharing thoughts and ideas. So again, thanks for visiting. Please feel free to pose questions or make comments.

Even the Longest Journey Starts with a First Step...

After prodigious procrastination and a fumbling first foray, I'm attempting to join the blogging world. Patience please, with someone accustomed to written communication through pen and paper, and for whom a "dashboard " is what's below a vehicle's windshield, a "friend" is an animate being, and "twitter" is irritating chirping (come to think of it, maybe I'm still current on that one). So, here is the initial post and test run to embark on this mode of communication. It can only get better, right?