Nary a Goblin in Sight

In what must be a blow to the candy and costume industries, October 31 came and left in this part of the world with absolutely no outward recognition of Halloween. This week, we finally moved into our house. The District Council has put forth a significant amount of effort to make it comfortable, and it has two bedrooms, a living room, a kitchen, a toilet room, and a "geyser" shower, along with other features that are not the norm for a Zambian home. Nonetheless, a few inevitable loose ends and surprises were encountered. No chairs, no water at various times of the day, no place to put the oven in the kitchen, no mirror (perhaps a good thing in my case, but shaving is definitely a challenge without water or a mirror), and an assortment of now familiar characters popping in and out (a pretty sizable lizard that uses the opening in the wall for the shower drain, a very large, hairy and frenetic spider that comes in and out under the front door, and cockroaches that seem to reside in the door locks and frames). One by one, these challenges are being attended (or adjusted) to, with chairs delivered, water stored, cooking with the portable oven on the large living room table, and tolerance for at least some of our extra “roommates”.

A number of kids reside in the other nearby houses, and Ity became an instant hit by providing the curious onlookers with balloons. They ran, jumped, and kicked and batted the balloons with amazing energy.   

Ity makes some instant friends

Another challenge is that the house heats up like an oven during the day and evening this time of the year. Opening up the doors and windows to increase circulation makes it easier for mosquitoes to enter. While Ity traveled to Lusaka this weekend to take part in a program for other Dutch compatriots the first of the week, I stocked up on some home basics, and also carried back a large fan from town. The locals were doubtless snickering or at least scratching their heads over that one.

A favorite tree near our house

Reflections...

Rather than moving ahead in a strictly linear fashion, this may be a good point to step back and provide some additional details on experiences thus far.

Scene from Petauke near sunset

The Journey to Petauke…

Through good fortune, another VSO volunteer, Ity from the Netherlands, is also on a short-term assignment in Petauke with the District Council. Thus, we’ve had an opportunity to provide mutual support, and are slated to be housemates. She is unfailingly cheerful, engaging and positive, which furnishes a nice counterpoint to my more reserved demeanor. As previously noted, our scheduled departure from Lusaka after completing the in-country induction and training was somewhat delayed, and Ity, driver (and District Council Mechanic) Mr. Tembo, and I finally left the city behind about 2:30 p.m. in a truck crammed with our gear, along with a new refrigerator for the house and other items. We soon entered a more pastoral landscape. One surprise was that in the countryside almost everywhere was either recently burned or burning, apparently to clear surface vegetation prior to inception of the rainy season and regrowth of the ground cover. An unfortunate result of this was somewhat impaired visibility of the increasingly impressive scenery as we entered more varied topography and finally dipped into the Luangwa River Valley. Crossing the river, we finally made our way into the Eastern Province.

Ity with our gear on the road to Petauke

As we continued east, the sun dipped below the horizon, and we arrived in Petauke safe and sound Saturday night. Because of the evening hour and not having a key to our house (or knowing exactly where it was), we checked into the Nyika Motel, which is located along the road into town from the Great East Road.

Nyika Motel

Sunday morning, Mr. Tembo arrived early to enable our gear and furnishings to be unloaded (with generous help from several local folks and a number of curious neighbor children looking on), so we could move into…

The House…

Our house is located among several others next to the Nyika Motel, about 3.5 kilometers from town. Just as we were starting to unpack our things, Jovax Ngoma, the acting Deputy Council Secretary, arrived to greet us, introduce himself and let us know that work still needed to be done on the house before we should occupy it. Thus, our stuff (less the refrigerator) was hauled back to the motel, which remains our temporary home until the finishing touches are completed on the house. The Petauke District Council owns the Nyika Motel, as well as the nearby houses where our accommodations are located. (Ours is the house with the fresh exterior paint!) Later Sunday, we walked from the motel into town and to the Petauke District Council offices. Our initial impression is that Petauke seems to be a pleasant place. Transportation will pose some challenge, as the house is a good 45-minute walk from the offices, rather the 15-20 minutes indicated in the placement outline, and one becomes fairly drenched in sweat on such a journey this time of the year.  At least initially, we will be provided with a ride to and from work, and Monday morning, we were ready to begin…

Curious young neighbors

The Job…

Monday morning, we arrived at the District Council offices, and were warmly greeted by everyone we met from the building entrance to around the offices, with Jovax Ngoma providing introductions and guiding us around the facility. Our staff counterparts from the prior Friday workshop in Lusaka were continuing to wrap up some other business there. My desk is located in the Works Department, although I’ll be working primarily with staff from the District Planning Unit, as well as the Works Department. Tuesday, we sat in on a workshop concerning the budget and involving about 20 to 25 members of the public representing various groups, as well several staff members. While scheduled to conclude by 12:30 p.m., it continued well into the afternoon.

The Field Trip…

With Works Director Betram Daka, supported by capable driver Wilson and helpful Security representative Simon, we set off on my third day on the job for more remote parts of the Petauke District. Turning south from the Great East Road just west of the Petauke turn-off, we made our way generally south on an unpaved road that ranged in quality from fair to downright bone-crunching. Over this very large area, one cannot help being struck by the truly rural nature of the district. Along the order of 90% of the district’s population resides in village settlements of varying sizes, with small scale agriculture (including crops and livestock) the predominant activity. At one point we were within about 10 kilometers of the Mozambique border as the crow flies, but not near a border crossing.

We stopped at two schools, where Mr. Daka carefully inspected projects under way.  About half of Zambia’s population is 15 or under. Please note Mr. Daka’s dedication in scaling a roof where work is in progress to complete his observations. He was much braver than me!

Mr. Daka at work

We then trooped on to an innovative pedestrian bridge under construction that will allow a community to remain connected as waters rise during the rainy season. Five such suspension bridges are being built in Zambia.

Independence Day…

October 24 is the Republic of Zambia’s Independence Day, and a time of festiveness and celebration. Events occurred here Saturday evening and extended throughout the day Sunday, with a Monday holiday because the 24^th falls on the weekend. My sense is that despite all of the challenges faced, Zambians highly value and take great pride in their independence, freedoms, and largely harmonious society.

Independence Day celebrations

On to Petauke

If the last post seemed rather cryptic, that’s because it was. Internet service in Zambia has thus far proven inconsistent and painfully slow, with literally hours devoted to opening and responding to relatively simple e-mails. But, from another perspective, how miraculous is it that one can communicate by various electronic means from nearly half way around the world?

Grounds at the Commonwealth Youth Programme
on the University of Zambia Campus

To recap, the initial week of in-country training and orientation in Lusaka wrapped up on October 15. Among some of the highlights, beyond meeting and getting to know the highly diverse and capable cadre of fellow VSO volunteers and VSO Zambia staff, were an introductory tour of Lusaka, a welcome “braai” (along the lines of a BBQ in the U.S) handled by the VSO Volunteer Committee, presentations by a variety of experts covering a range of topics, an evening reception generously provided by the British High Commissioner in Zambia, and a Cultural Night featuring traditional dances from throughout the country (and including some spirited audience participation).

We also met representatives of our host organizations, and on Saturday departed from our accommodations at the Commonwealth Youth Program on the University of Zambia campus for destinations throughout the Southern, Eastern and Lusaka Provinces. After a five-hour plus journey (not to mention around five hours of largely waiting to get started), we finally arrived in Petauke Saturday evening.

Petauke District Council Offices

Today, finally was able to access the internet in Petauke, thanks to the help of colleague David Dawson. Much to report, so please stay tuned!

Zambia or Bust

Following an overnight flight departing Thursday evening from San Francisco to London, around five hours in Terminal 5 at Heathrow (just not enough time to actually get out and do something constructive while waiting), and another overnight flight to Lusaka (if it's Saturday, it must be Zambia), I finally arrived to begin my volunteer posting. In talking with a few other VSO recruits on the London to Lusaka leg of the journey, little did we know what a large arriving group was involved. The bus that came out early Saturday morning to retrieve us was so overwhelmed with baggage that a second vehicle was secured. All told, some 17 folks arrived, to be followed by several others on diferent connecting flights.

Debarking at Lusaka

The first week in country is devoted to orientation, training and preparation for our specific placements. We're all staying at the Commonwealth Youth Program facility at the University of Zambia campus. Next Saturday, we leave for our ultimate destinations (some staying in Lusaka, and others headed for diverse locales around the country).

On the Road Again

After a roughly 600-mile drive on Monday to get my car up to the San Francisco Bay Area, where it will reside during my stint overseas, I'm gearing up for tomorrow's flight to Lusaka, via London. Many, many thanks to friends, family and others who have made this adventure possible and provided such a nice send-off. A special thanks to the supporters to date who have made donations to CUSO-VSO (for those who may want to give, please note the link to my fundraising site under "Now See This" on this page), to Sherry and the other committee volunteers at CityFront Terrace (the condominium complex that's home) for a surprise dinner, to loyal friends Jack and Linda for a wonderful dinner and evening out, to Jan and Harry for a superb dinner in their lovely home, to Connie and Mike for a great home-cooked breakfast at their very cool place with other tennis buddies following play (is there a culinary trend here?), to Enid, who bravely is assisting management of my finances (and also provided a fine lunch), to Astrid and Goran for generously looking after completion of infamous bathroom repairs in my unit (everyone at CityFront will know what this is about) and keeping an eye on my condo, not to mention Goran's patient efforts to try and bring me into the 21st century technologically, to Mitch and Jen for putting me up (and putting up with me) these last few days and for taking care of my car, and to my Mom and other family members for their love, caring and support. 



Mt. Diablo from Mitch & Jen's in Pacheco, California